Sitting in our flat in Seoul, we were bored. We’d hiked the mountains, waddled along the beaches and drunk ourselves stupid on too many occasions. “We could go to North Korea?”, someone suggested. I paused, mulling over whether to give my money to such a government. Still, I felt I needed to see it.

Koryo Travel, run from Beijing by two English guys, has been running tailored tours for twenty years. If you have ever seen a film about the Mass Games, the North Korean football team in 1966 or the four US soldiers who went AWOL, they made them too. I wasn’t comfortable taking a tour, but turn up, as a solo backpacker, expecting to tramp around and you’ll get ten years inside.

A mixed-nationality group of seventeen flew from Beijing to Pyongyang. The plane was so old it barely got off the runway. Next to me was a North Korean school girl vomiting into her sick bag. I gave her mine as well. She took it, acknowledged it with a thankful nod but never looked at me. She also filled it.
Once in Pyongyang, the true surreal experience began. At first, we wondered if we were meant to take the locals’ stories seriously. Soon we simply gave smiling nods to all the wondrous news we were told. The hotel was unfortunately not the magnificent and still uncompleted Ryugyong Hotel but one built by the French on an island in the river – a hotel the North Korean government subsequently refused to pay for and then threw the French out.

If you ever wondered where North Korea gets its money from, then the list is notorious. They’re the biggest producers of amphetamines and fake US dollars in Asia, they helped train Zimbabwe’s Special Forces and they regularly threaten to build more nuclear bombs unless they get help. It’s a simple game of brinkmanship, but with the tacit backing of China and reluctance of South Korea and the US, it has consistently worked. So far.

We visited a farm with a radio you can turn down but not off. It looked a very orderly farm, if rather deserted of people and crops. The State Circus was fun, but the Children’s Theatre was two hours of traditional Korean music (think Team America), and the library, supermarket and DMZ border were more difficult to cover up. They were shell-like buildings; cold and vacant.

A trip to a school was the most surreal experience of all. In the computer room, the kids were busy doing various different tasks. I watched one child from a distance. He was inputting ten or so numbers into an Excel spreadsheet and once finished, he simply deleted the numbers and started again. This school was a sham, prepared on Wednesday afternoon for the tourists.
We bowed at various monuments and murals dedicated to Kim Il Sun (The Great Leader) and his playboy son Kim Jong Il (The Dear Leader). Our guides pointed out that one huge statue of The Great Leader used to be all gold. When the North Koreans tried to play-off the Soviet and Chinese government for aid, the Soviets took a different tact. Pointing at the glimmering statute, they merely suggested North Korea melt it down. It’s now copper!

Once you get out of Pyongyang, the true picture emerges. The country is desolate, brown and worn. The soldiers are not the impressive 6-footers you see at the DMZ border with South Korea. Rather they are boys with country tans and sleeves that cover their hands. You could lie down and sleep in the middle of the highway – there’s s no traffic as far as the eye can see.
The most sinister thing we experienced (apart from eating dog one night!) occurred in the East coast town of Wonsan. The park we visited was full of locals enjoying soju, the local Korean firewater and dancing in a circle. We joined them, only for the party to be quickly broken up by state agents. Later, we witnessed a small car accident and the state security came to our hotel to check our digital cameras. In North Korea, bad news isn’t to get out.

On the last evening before the train ride back to Beijing, there was a large dance in honour of Kim Il Sung’s birthday. We observed for a while before being dragged in to join the party. Later, we sang karaoke and drank whiskey with the guides. I asked the male guide if he really believed the stories he told us. “Yes”, he replied. “So Kim Jong Il is so good at golf he once scored 36?” “Of course”, he smiled, but with a smile that said all I really needed to know.

Dan Adams

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4 Comments

  1. January 19, 2011 at 04:18 — Reply

    This is really fascinating and I’m glad I’ve finally found out where North Korea actually gets its money from! How much freedom to roam about were you granted by your state minders? Did you travel into the deep into rural North Korean backwaters, or were your trips confined to the more developed urban areas? Wow, I really envy you and wish I had the money to do a trip to the Korean peninsula!

  2. dan
    January 21, 2011 at 12:48 — Reply

    Sorry I didn’t even know this was up Tom.

    We had preciously little freedom in general, maybe 100m could be the limit bu this is North Korea where are you gonna go. I will tell of one funny bid for freedom.

    A friend Gustavo was on the trip too and he left the hotel at 7am to go for a run. As the hotel is on the end of the island, the only way to run is away from it and towards the bridge into the city. After a while, he looked around to see a guy in a suit running after him. He was one of the security guys from the hotel dressed to look like a guest. Gustavo continued to run to the bridge but then turned away through the golf course back to the hotel. He told me about it at breakfast. The next day he did the same thing except this time they were prepared. The same guard had a car ready and drove on ahead of Gustavo to block the bridge!

    The place was too surreal for words. We went to Pyongyang, Kaesong and Wonsan. Travelled through the countryside but it is all pretty sparse. Its simply not possible to wander though you can tailor your itinerary somewhat.

  3. Alexandra
    March 12, 2011 at 02:23 — Reply

    This is amazing. As a geography student, I love visiting and hearing about new places. I was talking with my sister recently about interesting, off-the-beaten-(tourist)-track places we could go and visit and North Korea came up. This scarily quickly moved from being a joke to a possible reality when she googled it and discovered that it was actually possible to visit this isolated world.

    Would you mind me asking roughly how much it cost, was it worth it, and is having a North Korean stamp on a passport going to create difficulties in getting into other countries?

    • dan
      March 14, 2011 at 10:26 — Reply

      Hi Alexandra,

      I totally understand the idea that suddenly something is not impossible and therefore you just start feeling you have to find a way to do it. As a near pathological traveller (and I like to think anthropologist!), once the idea became possible, it grows until I just have to act.

      Below is a link to the group tours. We took the Kim Il Sung Birthday Long Tour. The price is about the same as when we went a few years back. The guys who run it are called Nick and Simon and they make documentaries about NK too. I was totally worth it if you can stand listening to the bullsh#t and accept the fact that you are hading money over to a very repressive government. I took the stance that I;d rather see it and report it back as it really is than allow the NK facade to continue. I wouldnt go back for numerous reasons but it was worth seeing such a unique place.

      You get no tamp unfortunately as you are on a group visa. And yeah it would prove problematic for South Korea, Japan and the US.

      We got up to plenty more than in the article above but the editors gave me a word limit! If you want to know more, ask here or email me on [email protected] and I can give you more information.

      http://www.koryogroup.com/travel_groupTours.php

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