This season Erdem, one of the most anticipated designers of the week, chose the White Cube Gallery as the chosen display space to showcase his A/W ’12 collection;  a risky choice considering the expected level of beauty, elegance and colour so rightfully associated with his designs. The space was deemed a little industrial at first, but as the show began it was apparent that it was the perfect place to display Erdem’s pieces of art, with the stark white background brilliantly highlighting his vivid creations.

The show opened with leather and tweed below the knee dresses, a signature length for the designer. As with the initial scepticism with the location, it seemed Erdem’s collection might be less frivolous that usual. However, this was soon proved very wrong when beautiful contrasting lace and floral prints emerged alongside tweed polo neck tops lined with neon. This theme of textured prints in the form of neon and tweed appeared throughout the show in the form of oversized coats to the beautiful floor length dress used as the finale piece, with ankle boots provided by Nicholas Kirkwood. One of the most head turning pieces of the collection was the lace acid green mini dress. Other colours included various shades of blue (including the nailpolish) and purple.

 

Erdem’s inspiration behind his current collection was the legendary Peggy Guggenheim, prompting the unveiling of the art based fashion master class, and explaining the chosen gallery for his location to showcase the new collection.

Make up was minimal and pretty, with hair in polished pony tails (a re-occurring trend on the catwalk this season) completed with a little black bow, adding just the right amount of pretty. His creations were polished and impeccably executed.

The designs are contemporary and upbeat, with an elegant femininity edging through the many different textures and colours to create a beautiful collection. The coveted pieces perfectly encapsulate the glorious exuberance so rightly associated with Erdem.

Hannah Donald.

 

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