Saturday 18th February, 5pm, Somerset House: Canadian born Todd Lynn’s A/W ’12 collection is revealed. With his trademark razor-sharp tailoring, androgynous models and excessive use of fur: Lynn’s designs captured, “the Renaissance, Mayan mysticism and the Brothers Grimm” – his inspiration for the collection.
Lynn is well known for his predilection for grunge and the androgynous look, however this season, Lynn’s collection as a whole has a more grown up, sophisticated feel, with the incorporation of metallic and lace. Lynn told LFW.co.uk that he’d “done a lot of new things – more colour, more fluidity, more texture,” and added, “I’m totally nervous about it, but if you don’t take the risks, what’s the point?” Looking at blogs and catwalk reports from the show, it seems that the Fashion world has embraced this change. Lynn succeeded in adding a warmer colour palette and relaxed drapery, whilst upholding his impeccable tailoring that is incessantly beautifully put together. The collection is more accessible, yet effortlessly stylish. The looks centred around autumnal colours and earthly tones – with his usual blacks, silvers and browns, and the addition of burnt orange and teal, which added a dash of colour.
Lynn’s Looks incorporated grunge; with outfits in heavy black leather, and introduced more ‘fairy tale’ looks with lace and slick tailoring of metallic shades.
Lynn’s collection focused on emphasis: with oversized lapels and collars, and emphasised shoulders through the use of shoulder length gloves paired with a short sleeve look. Winter coats and jackets featured funnel necks with oversized pockets, and trousers had an emphasised flair, which rippled elegantly down the cawalk. The models themselves, with sleek centre parted hair and mysterious grey eyes epitomised androgyny, which only stressed the contrast in looks further. The above image of the lace funnel neck and flared trousers, hung on such a fierce looking model captures Todd’s transition from grunge to more feminine, elegant pieces perfectly.
For me, the statement piece of the collection was this jacket, smothered in an oversized fur collar. It reflects the velour like texture we may associate with a princess’ dress in Grimm’s Fairy Tales, yet with sharp tailoring, it transforms it to a twenty first century statement jacket. The piece that emerges from underneath shows the draping that Lynn used this season; a soft, fluid form in contrast with his slick tailoring to acquire a ‘corrupted elegance’ look.
Lynn’s collection therefore was not simply for ‘another fashion week’; he experimented with injections of colour and contrasting structure with drapery whilst upholding his unique style. It takes a brave and talented designer to update their look yet still be recognisable. Lynn’s taken this exciting step – and I love it.
Olivia de Courcy