Proenza Schouler are responsible for some of the most exciting and innovating design work around, Lazaro Hanandez and Jack McCollough being dubbed fashion alchemists for their use of prints and fantastical manipulation of fabric. This season the duo promised that the hitherto exuberant, rebellious, party-girl characteristic of the collection would be continuing her coming of age, and this she certainly did.
Set against a stunning background of New York City’s brick-walled Garment district, yet contained within an immense glass and concrete studio, this was a show of drama and contrast. The sultry and brooding tones of the clothing contrasted to fresh-faced, minimalist make-up and created a distinct sense of development and maturity within the collection.
As ever with Proenza, the artisty of the pieces was exquisite, varying from structured jackets and refined utilitarian tunics all the way to sweeping metallic plissé gowns which creatied a phenomenal sense of movement and excitement as the models stalked down the catwalk in a whirl of precious metal.
A tone of fierce androgyny swathed the collection in the muted hues, minimalism and heavy focus on trousers and separates. The tagline of ‘domesticity’ was presented with this collection, the duo taking inspiration from furniture design, a theme exhibited in the collection’s clean minimalism. Despite the summer designs, the colours and patterns were dominated by dark hues, pops of brightness provided by metal rather than pastels or neon. As the collection developed, focus shifted to these metallics, Edie Campbell dominating the runway in a black and gold gown offsetting her signature raven crop and sepulchral gaze.
The collection seemed both futuristic and classic, with a dual focus on graphics and silhouettes. The collection held contrasting images of the natural and the industrial, as models were adorned in heavy metal flower necklaces and a monochromatic woodland print. This print almost seemed to allude to a tone of danger, the alteration of the natural into something barely recognisable, a sinister forest scene perhaps played out as a coming of age. The youthfulness so often conferred by florals was used instead to confer a sense of power and control.
With such a strong collection Proenza Schouler prove exactly why they have managed to win the admiration of the fashion world and the public in general (#proenzaschouler was trending on Twitter within hours of the show), and it is things like this that further demonstrate Proenza’s ability to develop their collection and style as the fashion world continues to change.