Zac Posen is one of the designers of the moment. His rise within New York Fashion Week has been almost meteoric, as too has his prominence as a ‘red-carpet’ designer. His success has resulted in a recent stint on the US tv show ‘Project Runway’, and as he and his label revel in celebrity status, anticipation for his collections continues to grow, making this show an extremely hot ticket.
As in past collections, Posen’s latest offering focused overwhelmingly on the art of occasion dressing. Models wafted down the catwalk draped in chiffon and organza designs, presented in a variety of dusky pastel hues, exuding a summery elegance and romanticism very much at contrasting to the dominant sporty/casual mood so far at nyfw.
Despite his all American roots, Posen’s collection seemed redolent of an English summer – the demure and ladylike designs seemingly built for an English Lady’s annual garden party – plissé skirts swirling around the knees in tones of rose and lavender.
An edge of daring crept into Posen’s designs with the occasional exposed satin bustier and the models sported flowers in their messy up-dos, alluding to a sense of sexuality that was lacking in some of the dresses.
While there can be no doubts over Posen’s incredible talent, this collection seemed to lack some of the flare of his previous work. Whether it was the lighting’s draining affect on both models and clothes, or something else entirely, this collection was good, but not as triumphant as Posen’s previous collections.
That being said, there were a number of exquisite details within the collection; backstage Posen described his work as ‘more sculptural’ than his previous designs, and this is where the designs really shone.
The architectural elegance of a jacquard evening jacket was one of the highlights, as were the full-length designs, ones almost certainly geared towards Posen’s celebrity clientele. In particular one stunning, blush coloured gown came sweeping down the runway and is almost certain to appear on the red carpet in no time.
Despite an overwhelming and perhaps unwelcome contrast to the general mood of nyfw, Zac Posen is certain to maintain a dedicated following – this collection the dream of the whimsical socialite – and no doubt his appeal within the high fashion world of awards shows and glitzy premiers will continue to bolster his popularity.