Phoebe Philo confirmed her place on the fashion wall of fame with her debut collection of clean lines, sharp edges and clean cuts in 2009 but since then she has gone from strength to strength. The Celiné luggage tote bag is the bloggers’ bag of choice and laundry bag checks- who would have thought they would ever become so damn popular? So with Philo getting it so very right every time what will be the ss14 offering?
Philo has surprised me and I’m probably not the only one. It seems as though Philo has been at the paint tin with primary colours and swipes of a paintbrush creating an energetic and playful collection. Jagged long hemlines rocked the Celiné devotees out of their comfort zone of crisp white smooth lines, and for those who thought they were being terribly grown up by wearing nothing but Celiné they will have to revaluate their wardrobe’s monochrome perfection as Philo now isn’t the only one being experimental and playful with colour and fashion. This collection is a little ball of energy and a whirlwind of colour, texture and geometric design.
Bright red, blue and white tees bearing bold black crescent brush-strokes stay slim on body whilst jagged hemlines flow near models’ ankles from underneath, some checked, some in fish-net, some black chiffon. Textures are mixed and juxtaposed and experimentation appears to be the name of the game. Peekaboo brass-edged holes show snapshots colourful dresses, which lurk beneath the clean angular oversized shapes of t-shirts adorned with fraying swathes of cloth.
Cobalt leather coats with bright sunny squiggles are cut with square edges so that as they’re gathered round the body and secured by a leather belt angular folds and pleats emerge. Such sharp pleats are echoed on the dresses, which concertina like the folds of an origami fan.
Jewellery is stacked on every limb with circles, triangles and polygons à go·go. Crumpled gold leaf scrunches round wrists and the heels of shoes whilst bracelets look to be made from strips of crinkled corrugated tin roof, painted blue and twisted to form something that resembles a bracelet. Shoes balance on silver spheres and add to the playful yet technical spirit of the show. One starts to wonder whether Philo used her high school geometry book as a tick-list for her collection with every shape being incorporated in some way, no matter how adverse to conformity it may be.
To say that Philo has mixed things up a bit would be the understatement of the season.
Images: Vogue.com, dazeddigital.com