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This week the fashion world went into mourning as news broke that Marc Jacobs will be parting ways with Louis Vuitton. After 16 years as creative director, Jacobs’ last show for Vuitton would be a celebration of his success and ‘best bits’ as well as being a sad farewell.

With a stream of gothic mystical urchin-like models taking to the black decadent runway the mood was sombre and all very black indeed. Dark beaded and embellished t-shirts, blazers encrusted with ebony adornment, dripping with thistle-like spiked balls alongside jet-black tassels, and sheer black tops with clusters of crunchy inky trimmings were teamed with loose boyfriend jeans to create a juxtaposition of expensive intricate detailing with the most unassuming and modest item of clothing.

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Sheer and intricately adorned black evening dresses exposed the bare torso of the model before moving down to reveal rough patchwork heavy-duty trousers with turn-ups and clunky biker boots- doing the unexpected, creating something so very right that technically should be so very wrong. Studded-collared stiff leather jackets whose sleeves were layered with black petals added an even tougher dimension to the dark tone of the spectacle.

A dark navy and charcoal black skirt hung from the black-sequined hips of a model whose bare breasts showed through the black netting body of a gown reminiscent of Black Swan- densely beaded black wings curled round and embraced the model’s shoulders, their jagged spikes creating a dramatic prickling silhouette and a sinister mood.

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Dramatic feathered headpieces plume over the model’s almost-bare limbs encased in net-bodies embellished with swirling sequin motifs whilst nipped-in black jackets complete the beautifully wicked ensemble. Such ornate exhibition seems dark but it is also sexy and extravagant and embodies everything that Marc Jacobs is about.

With beautiful detailing and a good dose of attitude it feels like Jacobs has had the freedom to go out with a bang and do what the hell he wants (doing an entirely black collection for summer is rebellious after all).  And it is on this note of celebration and retrospect that we must bid a farewell to Louis Vuitton as we know it.

 

Emma Willey

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