Impact Style are kicking off fashion month with daily reports from the four cities to give you the edited highlights of the best shows in town. As NYFW is now almost at its close, there is no let up in the fashion-week circus and with two days to go before the fashion pack jet off to London, some of the big New York hitters were still to come: among them King of American glam Michael Kors, who’s star studded front row drew as much attention as the clothes, alongside this was the highly anticipated debut of Jason Wu for Hugo Boss, the return of Proenza Schouler’s experimental pattern genius and Marchesa’s red-carpet ready runway.
When one hears the name Michael Kors, images of rich colours, summer glamour and glistening metallics are normally brought to mind. The American King of the glamazons never fails to provide a collection that will make a woman feel like a million dollars (or rather a billion dollars – Kors was recently named as one of the few fashion houses to join the billionaire’s club) but this season he has taken a different track to reach that goal. The entire collection was based on a muted, neutral palette, and often showed seemingly conservative cuts – midi lengths and high necks. However, each look was accented with a luxurious touch which embued the looks with the seductive and sexy aesthetic for which Kors is famous; shirts were shear, and luxe furs draped around the models shoulders. Chunky knitwear was given a lady-like makeover in oversized, slinky jumpers and dresses. While this collection may not have had the overt wow factor that Kors so commonly gives to his clothes, the paired back, accented aesthetic of the collection created an autumn/winter offering a mature take on sexy. In Kors’ own words, this collection was strong but relaxed, powerful and chic. HB
The fashion world waited in great anticipation today for the unveiling of Jason Wu’s premier collection for Hugo Boss. Having been announced as creative director in June, media attention reached a fever pitch, with celebrities adorning the front row, eager editors sitting alongside waiting to see what Wu would produce for the classic label, needless to say: he did not disappoint. Bringing his signature minimalism to the brand, Wu produced a collection of sharp sillohuetes and delicate detailing, each piece adding to the recurrent trend of modern power-dressing. The designs were bold yet elegant, sharp cut blazers and a monochromatic tone providing a masculine edge, but shear blouses, deep V necklines and leather panelling adding a sense of sexuality to the collection. This was a collection for a woman who knows what she wants, and is not afraid to go out and get it. With the powerful yet elegant aesthetic of this collection exploring the modern woman in terms of gender, sexuality and style, are we seeing third wave feminism starting to hit the runway? HB
There’s always something a little bit special about Proenza Schouler. The design duo consistently creating collections that are both feminine and powerful, their experimentation with pattern and colour inducing collections which are almost disorientating: the eye constantly seeking a source of reference for the hypnotic patterns swirling around each other, melding into one as the models stalk down the runway. It’s the perfect combination of print and cut that gives Proenza such cult appeal. For their autumn/winter collection, the show space itself seemed almost a part of the collection: a minimalist concrete flooring indicated the sleek, urban aesthetic of the clothing, and the pulsing beat of Missy Eliot’s ‘Work it’ hinted to the fierce attitude that pervaded the collection. Each piece was cut with strong bold lines, with a strong focus placed on exaggerated shoulder pieces, sleeves were wide and coats oversized. But these were not pieces ‘borrowed from the boyfriend’, nipped waists, flared peplums and open necklines demonstrating another NYFW collection focusing on the power of the woman. The combination of masculine and feminine tailoring techniques created a sense of androgyny in the first half of the collection. The dazzling prints accentuated all the more by the minimalist cuts. Woodern grain, zebra, white noise and giraffe inspired prints blending seamlessly into each other in varying neon brights and glistening metallics. This collection was all about attitude. Proenza is fierce. HB
Like Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa is also a red carpet favourite, and no doubt something that will crop up at the forthcoming Baftas and Oscars. This collection was a true ‘golden’ masterpiece, with dresses adorned with lace, silks and heavy beaded necklines – an elegant and tasteful array of gowns swept down the runway. Similar to de la Renta the dresses were fairy-like in their creation and princess-like in their design and structure. However, there was nothing ground-breaking in this seasons collection – all was to as expected from the label, it was luxurious, it was fiery and it was fierce but it didn’t break the boundaries like other shows we’ve seen in New York. Again though – this show is something to aspire to and the dresses can certainly be pinned as grad ball inspiration (without the hefty price tag and sheer lace!). JR
Harriet Brown and Jessie Roseblade
Images: fashion.telegraph.co.uk, vogue.co.uk